Photoessay: Master Baker Daniel Jorda at the World Gourmet Summit

Master Baker Daniel Jorda is from the small neighborhood of Trinitat in Barcelona, and a third generation chef. In addition to running his own bakery, he also works with Michelin-starred chefs to produce custom breads to complement their meals; having tried them personally, I have to say that his work has the perfect balance of softness, crustiness, and flavor. Most importantly, it never seems artificial or forced – the bread is always rustic, but somehow perfectly controlled.

This short photoessay covers the class he gave at the World Gourmet Summit in Singapore a few months back. Series shot with a Leica M9-P and 35/1.4 ASPH FLE. MT

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Nikon D800/ D800E left focus problem update: fixed successfully!

Just got my D800E back from NPS. Apparently, the cause of the focusing problem in all cases is some inaccurate calibration data entered during the alignment/ calibration process. I was told it’s basically a case of hooking the camera up to the laser calibration jig, and letting a piece of software run a calibration routine point by point – there are no physical or mechanical adjustments made to the camera. The software then writes this somewhere in the camera’s ROM for future use. All testing is done with the 50/1.4, and the instrumentation is apparently sensitive enough to detect minor focus errors – they’re also present even on teles, but less obvious, is what I was told.

Also asked about the new firmware that’s appearing in some cameras – apparently it’s legitimate, but not officially downloadable yet. No news on when that might be. My camera still has the same firmware it went in with – A 1.00, B 1.01, L 1.006.

The good news is that all of the wides I tried the camera with now focus consistently between AF and live view, i.e. there’s no difference between the results from either AF system. I repeated the test a number of times, each time with the camera locked down on a Manfrotto Hydrostat head on top of a Gitzo 5-series systematic tripod, using flash. (Let’s just say that camera shake is a non-issue.) However, it’s also revealed that lenses are a lot less perfect and symmetrical than we would like them to be…the D800E has one seriously demanding sensor.

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This example set shot with the 28/1.8G at f1.8. The original size is visible here, which is a screen shot of 100% crops.

Conclusion: problem solved. If you do have the left side AF issue, then send it in and insist they look at it – because there exists a fix, and it works. Barring any further AF oddities (it’s night time here and I haven’t had a chance to test AF tracking or 51-point 3D yet), I’m considering this issue solved. Thanks to the folks at Nikon Malaysia for turning around the camera so fast!

I’m off to break out the LensAlign to run AF fine tune on the rest of my lenses again. MT

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Review: The Nikon AFS 28/1.8 G

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Due to a risky mixture of popular request and a slight but gnawing dissatisfaction with my the performance of my 24/1.4 G on the D800E, I recently acquired the Nikon AFS 28mm f1.8 G to review. (Hereafter referred to as the 28G) The 28G was released earlier this year, and is now available with relative ease. It’s a 11/9 design with a near focus limit of just 25cm, and magnification of 0.22x.

All images in this review may be clicked on for larger versions. Photographs from this review were shot with a Nikon D800E on my last assignment to Geneva.

A note on testing methodology: I’m not a lab reviewer, but I do try and make my testing as scientific as possible. It’s part of getting to know the limitations of you gear, so you can make the most out of it on assignment and in the field. This means that if I see some odd behavior, I’ll do my best to replicate it before reporting it’s an issue. Please go by what I say, not by the images – it’s impossible to judge optical characteristics on web-sized jpegs; I’ve been looking at hundreds of D800E raw files.

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The lens is both light in the hand, and fortunately also light on the wallet. At a street price of around US$650 (in Malaysia, at least) – it represents excellent value for money compared to both the AFS 24/1.4 G, and the notoriously difficult to find AF 28/1.4 D. Being a huge fan of the 28mm focal length, I find myself with few options – 24 and 35 are much more popular, and have everything from f1.4 options to macros and tilt-shifts. (To the best of my knowledge, the only perspective-control 28mm made was an early Nikon 28/3.5, which only allowed shift and no tilt.) Until now, my go-to lens at 28mm has been the Zeiss ZF.2 2/28 Distagon T* – to be the subject of a future review – which has some pretty unique optical qualities, not least its hugely pronounced field curvature.

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Although the 28G carries the gold front ring signifying contents of ED glass and professional level construction, it definitely doesn’t feel like it. This is one of the lightest lenses for its size I’ve ever handled; similar in weight and size to the 18-135 DX kit lens, actually. The shell is entirely polycarbonate, and the only metal to be found anywhere is on the mount and screws. Looking at the edges of the back element, I suspect there’s a moulded aspherical element or two in there also. Still, build quality seems decent enough, with no creaks, rattles or clunking, and the focusing ring is both easy to turn and without any free play. The lens also has a rear gasket and is weather sealed.

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This is a proper AF-S lens, which means that there’s full time focus override, no hard stops at either end of the focusing scale (though the resistance increases noticeably) and reasonably fast and accurate focus. It acquires focus at about the same speed or slightly faster than the 24/1.4, actually. Most of the time, the lens snaps into focus quickly and positively. I’ve had a couple of occasional ‘near misses’ where the camera thought the lens was in focus but it was just out of critical sharpness range – near enough – but only when shooting at f1.8. I don’t know if this is an issue with the lens or the D800E (and its focusing issues). Some further investigation is in order, I think. The lens is somewhat prone to the left-side AF issue of the D800/D800E, though only for the extreme most points (the column of three) – all of the other points focus as expected, at least on my D800E body.

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100% crop of above

Optically, the 28G does a great job in the center – it’s sharp from wide open even on the D800E, however you need to stop down a bit to reach maximum microcontrast. Optimal sharpness in the center comes at about f5.6. There’s almost no CA or flare, even when shooting high contrast subjects; a testament to Nikon’s Nano-Crystal Coating doing the job it was designed for. There is, however, some uncorrected speherochromatism and longitudinal chromatic aberration – the latter which appears as both bloom and red/green fringing when shot wide open. The lens makes nice sunstars, too – with minimal ghosting.

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100% crop of the above image, shot through glass (hence the fringing)

The corners, are a different story – they’re not sharp til about f8, and noticeably vignetted. However, it seems that the 28G also suffers from pronounced field curvature – much like the Zeiss Distagon – because there is a sharp plane of focus, curved in front of the subject and back towards the camera. It isn’t quite as pronounce as the Zeiss, but it’s definitely there. Technical shooters will hate this because it isn’t a flat-field lens, but personally I think it’s great for environmental portraiture and reportage – placing your subject somewhere in the central region means that the lens actually helps you to achieve better separation by relatively defocusing the background further. Speaking of technical shooters, there’s a hint of pincushion distortion, but nothing that isn’t easily fixable with the profiles available in Photoshop/ ACR.

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Let’s talk a bit about bokeh – it’s best described as neutral to good. There are some bright edges on circular OOF highlights, but nothing too bad; there’s also a hint of texturing inside the same circles, which points to the use of a moulded aspherical element or two somewhere inside. I can’t help but think a circular 9-bladed diaphragm, similar to that used in the f1.4 G lenses, would have improved things a bit – the pennies had to be saved somewhere, and we have to make do with a 7-bladed and slightly angular iris.

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If you’ve got enough distance between subject and background, the lens renders the scene with rather nice ‘pop’ – subjects are well separated from the background. Although the 28G has a maximum aperture of f1.8, it has about the same isolating power as the 24/1.4 due to the slightly longer focal length. I still wouldn’t use it for close up portraits though, the wide angle perspective distortion is definitely not flattering.

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In what must be a first for any Nikon lens, the 28G seems to out-transmit its Zeiss counterpart, aperture-for aperture. The 28G has a T stop that’s about 1/3 stop greater than the 28 Distagon; a rather surprising result. (The Zeiss 85 Planar is nearly a whole T stop faster than the 85/1.4 D, and about a third of a stop faster than the 85/1.4 G.) The front elements have the same nearly-invisible look as those of the Distagon. More importantly, transmission throughout the color range is pleasingly neutral; scenes are rendered with clarity and natural saturation – though not quite with the same microcontrast punch and overall saturation of the Zeiss

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Oops, missed the sensor dust.

If at this point it seems that the review has somewhat turned into a comparison between the Zeiss ZF.2 28 Distagon and the 28G, you’d be right – in my mind, these are natural competitors (at least they are in my lens cupboard, at any rate). It’s very difficult to choose between the two – the Zeiss does have a certain hard-to-define quality about its microcontrast structure and bokeh that just makes images shot with it slightly more vivid and three-dimensional; however, you lose very little with the Nikon, and gain much convenience by way of autofocus.

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I am a 28mm junkie (at the last count, I’ve got nine ways to get there on four different sensor sizes) so you might want to take this conclusion in context – I can see reasons for having both. If I was shooting something for which I had time to be deliberate in the setup and craft the scene – I’d pick the Zeiss. However, if I was doing documentary work, or travel, or anything which might possibly have a hint of run-and-gun to it – I’d mount the Nikon. MT

The Nikon AFS 28/1.8 G is available here from B&H or Amazon.

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Update: My 28 stopped working yesterday; up til this point it hasn’t had any issues, but suddenly none of my cameras would recognize the lens. Nikon service says it’ll be three weeks to get replacement parts (AF motor, PCB, some connectors) – which frankly is pretty unacceptable for a lens that’s only three weeks old! To make it worse, there aren’t any loan units or similar lenses other than a slow zoom or two.

To their credit though, they arranged a replacement through my usual dealer within about half an hour. With the number of problems with Nikon’s recent products, I’m starting to think that QC has suffered quite a bit following the tsunami – or it could just be because the lens is made in China.

Singapore reader meetup this Friday – 6 July – last call!

I’ll be in Singapore this Friday, 6th July for some meetings – if you’d like to attend the reader meetup lunch, from 1-3pm – probably around the Orchard area but TBC (will definitely be somewhere in town) – please leave a comment below with your email address, and I’ll send out the details in the next day or so. Thanks and looking forward to seeing you all there! MT

Photoessay: Opening night at the World Gourmet Summit 2012

From the opening night party of the World Gourmet Summit 2012, held at Resorts World Sentosa, Singapore. Non stop eating, drinking and general merriment…and one Charlie Chaplain impersonator who grabbed my camera and pointed it at himself. Shooting and eating standing up simultaneously was tough! MT

This series was shot with a Leica M9-P, 35/1.4 ASPH FLE and 50/0.95 ASPH.

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How to tell if your D800/ D800E/ D4 has the ‘left focusing problem’

I’ve been asked this question more times in the last few days than I can remember: ‘does my D800/ D800E/ D4 have the left side focusing problem?’

Here’s how you can tell.

1. Pick the widest, fastest lens you own. A 24/1.4 is ideal.
2. Shoot it wide open, with the camera on a tripod, AF set to AFS single point.
3. Shoot a set of images at extreme left, center and extreme right, defocusing the lens manually between shots. Use viewfinder AF. Pick a subject about 2m away.
4. Without moving the camera, do the same but in live view. (This is so the camera focuses exactly on the sensor).

5a. If there is no difference in sharpness in AF and LV modes between the points across the frame, then you’re fine and don’t have a problem. (But you might of course find the edges worse than the center; that’s normal. LV and AF focused shots at each point should look exactly the same in a correctly calibrated camera.)

5b. If LV is sharper than AF for all frames, then you need to use AF fine tune and try the process again.

5c. If the LV shots look sharper for only some, but not all, of the points, (e.g. right and center points look the same for AF and LV, but your left point is much sharper in LV than AF) – then you have the asymmetric focusing problem and your camera has to go back to Nikon.

You might also find this article useful on how to use AF fine tune.

And with that, I’m off to send my camera in for the fix. Will report back later (or tomorrow, whenever it’s done)…MT

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Common photographic mistakes by beginners, amateurs and pros – and how to avoid them

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Beginners: Ever wonder why your photos don’t look ‘professional?’ Amateurs: ever wonder why you lack consistency? Pros: Ever wonder why you lose your edge or drive? Wonder no longer. This article deals with some of the most common oversights by photographers of all kinds, and how to avoid them.

Beginners

The missing subject. If it’s not obvious at a glance what is the subject of your image – i.e. what the photo is actually about – then you should probably ask yourself why you took the picture in the first place. If the answer was ‘because of the X’, and the X is not obvious, then you need to try again. The subject in a photo should stand out – by contrast, by color, by light, by motion, or by focus. In exceptional cases it’s possible to make it stand out by not having it, but this is very, very rare and requires perfect use of contextual information to allow the viewer to make inferences about what should complete the scene.

Poor perspective use. Pick your perspective before your angle of view. Wide angles are used to emphasize foreground subjects, telephotos to de-emphasize them with respect to the background. Don’t use a wide angle to ‘get more stuff in’ the frame, that will just result in boring images. Similarly, telephotos are not for ‘getting closer’.

Being stuck in the wrong gear. This includes the entire suite of woes of technical errors – exposure, focus, camera shake, white balance etc. Usually due to the driver relying too much on the camera to do the work for you: it will never get it right because there is no way the camera can know what the photographer intends to do with each image. You will have to take control somewhere along the line in the imaging chain in order to create the image you envision in your mind at the time of capture, and it’s better to do it closer to the capture process to minimize the subsequent amount of image quality degradation.

Amateurs

Worrying too much about gear. This usually takes the form of hauling around everything you own for every shoot and believing a new piece of equipment will solve some deficiency in your images that can almost always be traced back to photographic skill, or more specifically, the lack thereof. If you carry too much stuff you’ll always be second-guessing your choice of lens or camera. And if you keep buying new gear, you’ll never master what you’ve got – and be at a disadvantage because you can’t control your equipment. Before buying new gear, make sure you know exactly what it is with your current kit that is the limitation, and that it will resolve the problem – otherwise you’ll have both wasted money and compromised your photography. However, if you’re just a camera collector, disregard this item. In fact, disregard this entire post.

Intrusions and truncations into frame edges. With 100% finders being commonplace, there’s no excuse for parts of the subject being cut off at the edges, or obviously contrasting distractions intruding into the frame – like tree branches or phantom limbs, for instance.

Color issues. Odd white balance, or objects in the frame that are obviously the wrong color can create some interest in an otherwise boring scene – or things like that can just be jarring if they’re too far off the mark. This is especially important for skin tones or food. If you’re not sure what the correct white balance is, either adjust it accordingly with the eyedropper tool when converting the raw file, or manually white balance with a gray card. Don’t leave the camera to do it on automatic – if a channel gets clipped, the information isn’t recoverable. This is especially obvious with jpegs due to the limited tonal range available in the first place.

Black and white contrast issues. Amateur black and white generally tends to be too flat or too contrasty. The latter results in a loss of highlight and shadow quarter tones, resulting in an over-graphic representation of the subject and not enough tonal range to differentiate the subject from the background; the former is just dull and uninteresting to look at. It’s like knowing the chef had twenty different ingredients to make a meal, but he used only the gray, monotonous-tasting one.

Poor use of natural frames or leading lines. These little ‘helpers’ are to be found all over the place – the converging perspectives of a long hallway are a great example of this. They can help to draw your eye to the subject, but they can also lead your eye away from it if you put the subject anywhere else by the confluence of these lines.

Center-only composition. Few images work well with the subject dead-center or nearly there; the more dynamic images always have a bit of space before or after – I like to think of it as the anticipation or the aftermath. All cameras these days have more than one focusing point. I hear they even let you pick which one!

Lack of balance. I did say just now that center-subject compositions are boring; that’s because they mostly are. But at the same time, you can’t have frames where all of the action happens in say the bottom-left corner and the rest of the image is empty. Visual balance is a tough thing to describe, but fortunately it’s one of those properties of an image which is instinctively easy to recognize.

Incorrect use of depth of field. Too little, and the picture becomes about the bokeh – most of the images shot with the old Leica 50/1.0 Noctilux are like this – I can never understand why people gush over a picture of a boring fence or pile of bricks just because it exhibits swirly bokeh; to me it says nothing more than ‘I rely on my gear to create a style for me because I have no imagination!’ It is, of course, a tool – used well, it can enhance an image. Used poorly, well, you’re just another camera collector who takes pictures of fences. Notice I haven’t said anything about too much depth of field – you can always compose to use this to your advantage, because any secondary element of context helps to tell the story. However, the converse is also true – there’s no context in an abstract wall of blur. Conclusion: I’m beginning to think there’s a just right amount of bokeh for every scene – or at least a range; just enough blur to help you focus on the primary subject, not too much to remove all the context.

Poor timing and not being prepared. I see plenty of shots that I call ‘near misses’. This is when the idea is there, the technical execution is well done, but the timing is off – always caused by a moving element that’s out of position. There are two elements to getting this right – practice, and practice. You need to have some ability to anticipate what’s going to happen next; you also need to have an instinctive feel for how much lag your camera has between depressing the button and the picture being taken. And the only way to make this intuitive is by shooting and getting accustomed to it.

Professionals

Getting stuck in the creative rut. Not pushing yourself and relying on the same patterns of framing time and again may ensure you get the money shot, but eventually everybody else will be getting the same money shot, too. (Certain local celebrity wedding photographers where I live are notorious for this.) You need to be continually trying new things, improving and refining and always pushing. It’s an increasingly competitive industry, and a very visual one – if your images don’t stand out, then you’re never going to be a client’s first choice – they probably won’t even notice you from the rest of the pack.

Leaving the thinking to the client asks for and no more. This is related to the previous point – in fact, it’s the precursor to it. Clients come in a continuum: those who leave all of the creative freedom to the photographer, recognizing that the reason why they were attracted to your portfolio in the first place is because of your own personal style (these are the best clients of all) – to those that tell you exactly what they want, down to the last millimeter of positioning. The former type of client is rare; this makes it very easy to fall into being a contractor/ executor rather than being a creative.

Subcontracting out too much of the retouching and styling. Another related point comes in the form of an army of assistants and stylists. Given how much of the creative process is encapsulated in the post processing portion, it seems rather risky to leave the work to somebody else – even if they understand your original vision, chances are that it will take longer because there will be many revisions required, and in the end it may still not quite be what you initially envisioned. If you let this happen for too long, technology may move on to the point where you don’t even know how to achieve the desired end result anymore. And if your assistant or retoucher leaves, then what happens?

Not trying different subjects. I’ve had endless debates with various people in the industry on this topic – is it better to be a specialist and only shoot one thing, or a generalist and shoot everything? The reality is that it’s a bit of both. You have to be known for one thing – that becomes your go-to commercial support – but you need to be able to shoot many different types of subjects. There are two reasons for this – firstly, it lets you make more income from being able to offer clients additional services; the less obvious one is that shooting different things helps you to develop different techniques that can be applied across your particular subject of expertise.

Finally, there’s working too much. This sounds contradictory, but not taking enough time out to focus on personal shooting/ creative development can actually make you lose your creativity and consequently negatively affect your business. Fortunately when this happens, you’ve got less work and more time to experiment, so hopefully you do actually go out and do some personal shooting. I’ve definitely noticed that the more commercial work I do, the less I feel inclined to do personal work – I think this is dangerous because that’s probably the only time where you don’t have limitations imposed on you by your deliverables, and can let your creativity do its thing.

And on that note, I’m off for a walk. With a camera. MT

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Visit our Teaching Store to up your photographic game – including Photoshop Workflow DVDs and customized Email School of Photography; or go mobile with the Photography Compendium for iPad. You can also get your gear from B&H and Amazon. Prices are the same as normal, however a small portion of your purchase value is referred back to me. Thanks!

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Photoessay: Polo time, part 1

From an afternoon spent at the Royal Selangor Polo Club as a guest of one of the players – one of the very few times I’ve shot sport, believe it or not. I once again come to the conclusion that I’ve got an insufficient number of millimeters, and you need rather high shutter speeds to get any sort of useable and sharp images out. Now that I’ve got a Panasonic 100-300 for my OM-D, I’ll have to try and get myself invited back again…MT

This series shot with the Nikon D700, D3100 and 28-300VR.

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Recommended lenses for the Nikon D800E

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Not quite summer at the Lac du Joux. Nikon D800E, Zeiss ZF.2 2.8/21 Distagon

Having had a solid couple of months to use the Nikon D800E and a variety of lenses, I’ve now compiled my recommended list of recommended lenses for the camera; some of the entries might or might not surprise you. These are lenses which I would not hesitate to use wide open, and will give you outstanding acuity, color and resolution providing you manage to nail the focus, of course. I’ve tested multiple samples of these lenses, as it seems that these days, consistency is hugely important and not always guaranteed. This list is also not exhaustive, because I’m sure there are exceptional copies of lenses I’ve ruled off the list, and there are almost certainly other obscure optics which I haven’t had the chance to try (and probably won’t ever manage to, either.)

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Grain silo. Nikon D800E, AFS 28/1.8

Wide
Nikon AFS 28/1.8 G
Carl Zeiss ZF.2 2/21 Distagon T*
Carl Zeiss ZF.2 2/28 Distagon T*

Normal
Nikon AI 45/2.8 P
Nikon AFS 60/2.8 G Micro
Carl Zeiss ZF.2 2/50 Makro-Planar

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Pears. Nikon D800E, Zeiss ZF.2 2/100 Makro-Planar

Tele
Nikon AFS 85/1.8 G
Carl Zeiss ZF.2 2/100 Makro-Planar
Any of the Nikon superteles

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Maitres du Temps Chapter 3 Prototype. Nikon D800E, AFS 60/2.8 G

Zooms
Nikon AFS 16-35/4 VR N
Nikon AFS 24-70/2.8 G N
Nikon AFS 70-200/2.8 II VR G N

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Sushi. Nikon D800E, PCE 85/2.8

Special purpose
Nikon PCE 85/2.8 Micro

Near misses (close, but not quite in the awesome league).
Nikon AFS 14-24/2.8 G – performance at 14mm lets it down, in my mind.
Nikon AFS 24/1.4 G N – I think this one is very, very borderline: if you get a good sample that focuses properly, it can probably be added to the list. However, I’ve used many of these lenses and there seems to be a lot of sample variation and focusing issues even on D700/D3 bodies; it doesn’t give me a lot of confidence.
Nikon PCE 24/1.4 – I’ve used one excellent one, and one that was merely so-so. Mixed reports on the web don’t suggest that the so-so one is a rare anomaly, and there just aren’t any more of them for me to test.

You’ll probably have noticed that the 28-300VR didn’t make the list; it’s because the lens just didn’t perform on the D800E to anywhere near the same extent it did on the regular D800. Just one of those inexplicable anomalies…

For more detail on any of the lenses mentioned here, visit the CAMERAPEDIA! MT.

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Visit our Teaching Store to up your photographic game – including Photoshop Workflow DVDs and customized Email School of Photography; or go mobile with the Photography Compendium for iPad. You can also get your gear from B&H and Amazon. Prices are the same as normal, however a small portion of your purchase value is referred back to me. Thanks!

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Commercial work vs personal work vs experimentation vs development

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This shot was the result of creative white balance use, and getting up early because I wanted to try it. Nikon D700, 28-300VR

One thing I’ve noticed since turning to photography full time is that the amount of personal work I do has greatly reduced. It’s not because I don’t have time to do it – on the contrary, I should have plenty more opportunities to sneak out and shoot for half an hour or an hour here and there – I think it’s because I’m starting to fall into the trap of complacency. Or perhaps I’m reaching a photographic saturation point of sorts.

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This shot was the result of experimenting with large amounts of blu-tack to keep the watch in place for the shot. Nikon D700, 60/2.8 G Micro

I definitely still enjoy shooting, and I still feel the same rush when I nail the frame – what I’m missing is the feeling of wanting to go out and do it in the first place. I think a large part of it is because once you start running your own business, there are always more things you can be doing on the development front – either sending out feelers to potential new clients, following up on existing ones, or doing post processing from jobs past. And that doesn’t count this blog, either.

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Up to this point, I’d never used dinner plates as props for watch photography before. Nikon D700, 60/2.8 G Micro

It’s odd, but equipment choice paralysis also seems to be a contributing factor. I’ve now got three systems – Nikon FX, Leica M and Micro 4/3 – each for a specific purpose, but also each with enough lenses to make a general purpose kit that I can comfortably go out and shoot anything with, be it an assignment or a holiday at the beach. And that doesn’t count the various compact cameras, either. Sometimes I honestly stand in front of the equipment cabinet before going out and feel plagued by indecision – even if I pick a system, which lens(es) should it go with? What do I anticipate shooting? What kind of look or style am I going for?

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Divisive symmetry. One of those experiments. Nikon D3

Constantly planning shots and thinking about the end result does make you a more conscious and prepared photographer, but it also means that to some extent you’re either paralyzed by indecision, or micromanaging everything in your control to the point that it doesn’t become fun anymore. Perhaps the most frustrating thing is the feeling that you definitely have the wrong piece of equipment on you, but the right one is sitting in the cabinet at home. (At that point, the best thing you can do is figure out what you can do with what you’ve got and just shoot, but that’s an entire post on its own for another day).

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The ephemeral missing sushi. One of my favorite near misses – even though nothing is in focus, you can make out enough of the shot to know that there should be something between the fingers and on it’s way to the diner’s mouth. To my eyes, the blurriness of it all actually helps to reinforce the implied surrealism. Olympus E-PM1 Pen Mini, Panasonic 20/1.7 G

So what’s the upshot of all of this? Well, not doing as much personal work means that that the times you do shoot are mostly bridled by the requirements of your clients, and frequently do not result in you pushing the creative envelope – especially if you have conservative clients. The importance of photography for yourself is that it gives you time to experiment and develop your style and technique; without it, it’s too easy to stagnate into a creative rut and consequently land up being unproductive, or worse, uncompetitive. Not having an end client to please takes the pressure off you, and leaves you free to try things that you might not have time to do while on assignment, especially if time is tight and shot list is long – which it almost always is.

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It was extremely dark, and empty – there were no people to fill the frame and provide context, motion and life – I didn’t even know if the shot would work technically, let alone aesthetically. I’m very pleased with the result, though. Leica M9-P, 50/1.4 ASPH

Inevitably, the early results of any experiment result in failure, or at best, partial success. Whilst this may not be acceptable in a client scenario, it’s a crucial part of the learning and development process – if you succeeded at something straight away, chances are you will develop that style far less that somebody who has to work at it. The reasons is down to understanding: assuming we don’t give up, humans understand things by doing them; the more times you have to try something, the more parameters you have to change, the more complete a picture you will be able to build up of how things work. This in turn results in better control over the end result, which of course culminates in better output.

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Same with this shot – one of those surreal, but fun experiments that came to mind after passing by the gorilla for sale in a store window. Leica M9-P, Zeiss 28/2.8 Biogon

Without this experimentation, one stagnates creatively; it’s actually very obvious in the work of various ‘famous’ wedding photographers in this country. Many of them revert to the same portfolio of five or ten compositions and apply them to every shoot – which has several consequences; firstly, they are increasingly pigeonholed into a particular style or look, and that’s what clients expect; secondly, they can’t take the risk of doings something else because of client rejection; finally, they can’t break out of that way of seeing because they’ve been doing it for so long, and the creative process has atrophied. It’s a dangerous cycle.

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Reflections – another experiment. By this point in the shoot (shooting a launch gallery for the Leica V-Lux 3) – I’d had a whole card full of standard shots, but nothing different and interesting – there wasn’t any clean water in sight for a neat reflection, so had to try and make do.

What I always find interesting – and inspiring – is the work of serious amateurs; Flickr is one of the best places to see this. Whilst there are a good number of pros on the site (myself included), it’s also home to a lot of people who fall into the former category. Serious amateurs are in an enviable position – one I didn’t appreciate myself until recently – most of the time, they have the skills to be able to make the shot they want, the lack of pressure to execute it, and the lack of cynicism that stops them from trying things that might fail in the first place. The result is that browsing uploads from my contacts shows me a wide cross section of work; some of it really quite excellent and inspiring; some of it utter rubbish; however, the most interesting to me are the experiments that are near misses, or clearly out of style for the individual: you can almost see how the compositional mind of the photographer works, trying to adapt their old way of seeing to a new style. It’s almost like seeing how something is made.

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If I hadn’t brought the D-Lux 5 along, and packed the light panels on a whim, then this series wouldn’t have happened, and I wouldn’t have known that it’s very possible to make commercial-grade food images with a compact.

I often get ideas through looking at other people’s images, period – especially of places I’ve been before, or things I’ve shot before. This gives you the ability to see things through the eyes of another person – and find what you might have missed from your own perspective, which in turn makes you want to go out and shoot again to try and perfect your vision once more, and capture the essence of that particular subject…

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Making do with the relatively slow f2.8 aperture of the 28/2.8 ASPH and the limited low light capabilities of the M9-P resulted in long shutter speeds, and the slight softening which lead to this rather surreal image – and the hidden gorilla in the shadows.

Creativity is an iterative process; one that must be built on, nurtured, and continuously pursued. Without it, it’s impossible to develop as a photographer. At the same time, it can’t be forced – something that a lot of people (our government included) don’t seem to understand; you can’t just throw time and money at it and hope that new ideas sprout. It doesn’t work that way – the inspiration, or the ‘ah ha!’ spark has to be there in the first place. The tough part is creating an environment for yourself in which you feel inspired and inclined to experiment. Stress, expectations and tight schedules aren’t conducive for creativity. But over-relaxation and laziness isn’t, either. It’s a tough balance, this one. And that’s one of the reasons why from now on, I’m going to make sure there are a couple of days a month – usually tacked on to the end of location-based assignments – which permit me to go off, explore and experiment. I highly recommend it. MT

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