Over the last few days and in the light of focus criticality with the Nikon D800, I’ve had a huge number of questions specifically regarding focus precision, and whether there’s anything we can do about lenses that are obviously off. Specifically, how does the AF fine tune setting work, and how does one calibrate their lenses?
1. Make sure your camera has AF fine tune. Any of the newer Nikons or Canons offer this feature, and perhaps other brands, too.
2. Find a suitably well-lit target that you and the camera can focus, and preferably one that’s flat but slightly off-plane to the camera, so it offers a variety of different focus distances. An ideal test chart is a world map on a wall, but with the camera to a slight angle to the wall (i.e. sensor plane is not perfectly parallel.)
3. Use a sturdy tripod, and set single AF. This is to rule out camera shake or false-AF movements from the camera attempting tracking.
4. Perform this test with the aperture set wide open. Stopped down, depth of field will hide focus errors.
5. If you have live view (I believe most cameras with AF fine tune do), then use magnified live view to achieve critical focus and take one shot. This will be your benchmark image – the sharpest that the lens can possibly deliver, when focused perfectly.
6. Switch back to single AF, and viewfinder mode.
7. Defocus the lens between attempts: this is important, otherwise the camera may be trying to move the focus gearing in too small an increment to overcome backlash.
8. Let the camera focus normally, and take a shot.
9. Compare the image from step 5 with the image from step 8 – if they’re the same at 100% size, then you’re fine – move on to the next lens.
10. If the images from 5 and 8 aren’t the same, then adjust the AF fine tune setting – say by 5 notches (if you have +/- 20 notches like the Nikons) and repeat 7, 8, and 9. If it’s better, keep going – do another 5-notch adjustment in the direction that created your improvement. If worse, then go back in the opposite direction. Reduce the adjustment amount changes and keep going. Basically, you want to iterate the process until you match your viewfinder-AF image with your live view focused image.
11. Save the adjustment value – if you can’t save camera settings to a card, you might want to write it down somewhere just in case.
12. Repeat for all of your other lenses.
A special note for zooms: most AF fine tune functions don’t let you input separate values for different focal lengths, so you’ll just have to try both ends of the zoom range and see which is worse; then run steps 1-12. Try to find a compromise setting that works acceptably well for all focal lengths in the range. Or, if you use one particular end of the zoom more than the other, you might want to weight your adjustment to this end of the range. MT







































































A couple more Nikon D800 images, and some commentary
Shadows. Nikon D800, 28-300VR
One of the big questions that’s been running around the internet is whether the D800 can replace medium format – the answer isn’t quite as simple as you might think. Firstly, the resolution is definitely there to compete with the lower pixel count options – and even more so once the D800E joins the fray. However, a very large part of the medium format ‘look’ is a product of the interaction between lenses, sensor size (i.e. angle of view) and tonal response of the sensor. Remember that almost all medium format sensors are CCDs, which have a very different – and less linear – tonal response to CMOS sensors. For comparison at the 35mm/FX size, the D700 and D800 both have a different tonal palette to the CCD-based Leica M9. Undoubtedly the look is different already due to no other factors.
However, once you consider the angle of view vs DOF equation, then things look different again – it’s similar to the difference between APSC and full frame – for a given angle of view and aperture, you’re going to have ever decreasing depth of field (and quicker transitions between in-focus and out of focus areas) with the larger sensors.
Some of the other things which have been of concern to shooters – like having enough light and decent support – are nothing new in the medium format world, especially to users of very high resolution backs like the IQ180 or H4D-MS; this is perhaps why a lot of people are crying ‘so what?’. Even so, good support pays off for both medium and smaller formats – even compact shooters have something to gain. The tradeoff is always weight and flexibility.
A quick note on color reproduction: the D800 has the most accurate color I’ve ever seen. This seems to be corroborated by the recent batch of DXOMark tests, which rank the D800 first (!). Most cameras have trouble accurately reproducing the blue-green-cyan tone of glass reflections (due to UV transmission/ reflection issues) – but the D800 required only minimal corrections. Furthermore, the very fine repeating patterns between the squares on the textured floor panels do not show visible moire, but plenty of detail. It’s also worth noting that nothing is blown out, and I crushed the shadows for the visual effect – there weren’t any blocked up blacks, either.
The look. Nikon D800, 28-300VR
Again, I was very pleased with the quarter tone reproduction quality here. I’m actually finding that for a lot of images – especially those with less contrast – you need to apply a curve with a very long, shallow shadow tail in order to get the right ‘look’. This is undoubtedly due to the D800’s huge dynamic range at low ISOs. As for detail, you can see the weave in the man’s shirt and my reflection in his glasses.
Bike traffic. Nikon D800, 28-300VR
This shot was a test in many ways – extreme highlights and shadows; lots of fine detail; tonality of B&W conversions. The short answer is, the camera passes. The image (which looks much better on a large monitor at full size, by the way) retains good detail even into the extreme corners, despite being shot with the weakest end of the 28-300VR, and has nice rich quarter and half tones, which make for a good B&W image.
The reader and the thinker. Nikon D800, 28-300VR
This portrait is a little deceptive, because there was a lot less light than it appears – 1/125s at ISO 1800, f5.6 and 150mm. Yet the camera held on to shadow details well – with remarkably little noise, I might add – and I can read the text in the newspaper at full size. I don’t think the files make as outright punch B&W conversions as say the Leica M9-P, but black and white conversions from the D800 seem to have a unique signature of their own – perhaps best characterized by subtle tonal gradations and deep shadow detail. In short, I like what I’m seeing, but I’m going to need to adapt the processing style a little to get the most out of it. MT