Review: The Fuji FinePix X20

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I picked up my review sample from B&H on my first day in New York; I spent several days solidly shooting it alongside the Nikon Coolpix A, and the Olympus OM-D I normally travel with. Many of you are going to (and have already) ask why I didn’t review the X100s instead, all the more so given that the wide converter would turn the camera into a 28/2 equivalent. Short answer: there wasn’t one available, and it’s something I still hope to be able to try out at some point.

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I’m always on the lookout for what I like to think of as the perfect ‘off duty camera; the kind of thing that is light, unobtrusive, delivers great results and moreover makes photography fun when the fancy takes you, but you don’t notice you’re carrying when you’ve got other priorities. Cameras like the X20, RX100, GRD series and Coolpix A – amongst others – fall into this category. I have a mental boundary, though; it starts when these things won’t fit into a (largeish) pocket and start requiring neck straps. That’s when you notice you’re carrying a camera.

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The X20 sits on the borderline; it’s almost small enough to be pocketable, but is best deployed around your neck, or tucked under one arm. It’s an update of last year’s X10, with a couple of notable differences: firstly, there are now phase detection photosites for autofocus on the sensor, which is now an X-Trans design similar to the X100s, X-Pro and X-E1 cameras that utilizes an unusual color filter array layout designed to reduce moiré, but not at the expense of detail].

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Resolution remains at 12 megapixels, laid out on a 2/3” size array. There has been much ado about software, image quality and raw file handling, with Adobe releasing an update to Camera Raw that’s promised to drastically improve image quality whilst avoiding introducing any odd ‘gritty’-looking artefacts in the conversion process. We’ll return to this later.

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The overwhelming impression of the camera is one that’s superbly well built, and has the tactile element of things just right; I had the silver version, and everything that looks like metal, is. It’s cold to the touch and nicely textured, unlike the painted surfaces of my X100 (they were metal, but didn’t feel like it). The controls have the right weight and damping; I’d much prefer to have a shutter speed dial to a mode dial, but I understand the average buyer of this camera probably would like easy access to automatic and scene modes. Still, it’s pleasingly notchy – same with the exposure compensation dial – and a pleasure to use. Operation speed is pleasingly responsive – snappy – in all aspects, and the quick menu makes changing settings a breeze. It could use a bit more playback zoom, though; the current maximum doesn’t quite magnify enough to determine if things are critically sharp or not.

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My brother, who lives in the UK, owns an X10, and I had the opportunity to play with it at length during one of the last times we met up. This was pre-X20; I found it felt great in the hand, the optical finder was handy to be stealthy or stable (you can brace a camera with an optical finder up to your face, which is infinitely better than holding it at arms’ length). But there were a few things that bothered me: the beautiful metal lens cap is something that has to be removed every time before shooting; that and the power switch on the lens barrel means you’re not going to be doing one-handed fast-draws to grab a wide angle frame. (You’d be surprised how often I do this when an opportunity strikes; I missed a large number of images I’d easily have nailed with an RX100, the Coolpix A, or even a Canon IXUS.) It was a bit slow to focus, too. Add the initial ‘white orb’ issue, and I wasn’t convinced of the value of the price of entry.

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The  X20 unquestionably fixes the focus issue; it’s DSLR-fast, and locks on with uncanny accuracy in situations where other contrast-detect AF cameras would have issues such as very, very bright (overexposed) highlights. And it got confused between foreground subject and background far less, too. Fuji have even added an LCD overlay in the optical finder (which still remains one of the best in a compact) that shows the focus point in use, as well as exposure information. I found myself in two minds about it after several days: on one hand, it was great to be able to shoot it DSLR-style, and have that optical finder; on the other hand, the shooting information was nearly invisible most of the time – the dark green backlight used is very, very dim compared to most scenes. On top of that, the frame coverage was really inaccurate – much like all compact tunnel finders – necessitating either guesswork or heavy cropping. And with 12MP to begin with, you’re quickly into the realm of not having enough file left to work with for some applications.

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The good news is that the X20’s lens – same as the X10’s 28-112/2-2.8 equivalent, with mechanical zoom ring and integrated power switch – remains, and delivers strong performance at all apertures. Central sharpness is good across the range, though the corners are always slightly soft and require stopping down a little to bring them up to par to match the center. The camera also has very effective image stabilization, which combined with the fast maximum aperture even to the telephoto end of the range, extends its shooting envelope considerably.

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This is fortunate, as the sensor performs best at ISO 100, with clear compromises as you go higher up the sensitivity range. Images are crisp to the pixel level, and you don’t see the same mush in fine detail areas as you would with a regular sensor – clearly Fuji are on to something with the new photosite layout. (Note: I used ACR 7.4 to convert the camera’s raw files, which has the new demosaicing algorithm.) Performance at base ISO is a clear step up on the other 10/12MP 1/1.7” sensor cameras, with crisper details and slightly more dynamic range; having recently shot the Leica D-Lux 6/ Panasonic LX7, I can say that there’s a clear step up between the two.

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At higher ISOs, the difference is less pronounced; as low as ISO 200, shadow noise starts creeping in, extending into the midtones by ISO 400, and being objectionable by ISO 800. (We’re talking about RAW files via ACR 7.4 here still.) The JPEGs are a little better, but exhibit some odd watercolor texturing even with noise reduction set to the lowest possible level. What’s even more odd is that by default, the camera tends to make some strange exposure choices. If any of the extended dynamic range modes – DR200 or DR400 – are chosen, then the camera tends to default to higher ISOs under bright light, (presumably to save the shadows) which is precisely the opposite of what it should do; yes, there is definitely a visible improvement in highlight dynamic range with smoother rolloff before clipping, but oh boy, those shadows are seriously noisy. To make things worse, because you’re running at ISO 400 in bright daylight, the lens is stopped down well past the diffraction point – f11 wasn’t uncommon. This happened even in DR100 mode. Independently, what I don’t understand is why the camera’s program mode tends to default to smaller apertures instead of raising shutter speeds; I never saw anything above 1/750s, even though the camera is capable of several stops more.

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It seems to me that to get the most out of this camera’s image quality, you have to do a few things: firstly, shoot it in DR100 mode; secondly, shoot RAW; thirdly, use aperture priority. It doesn’t normally make any difference to depth of field when your sensor is this small and the real lens focal lengths you’re dealing with are fairly short, but in this case, we have to manually force the lens to use its optimum aperture* instead of the smallest one. That’s quite a lot of fiddling if you’re in a hurry, and though the image quality is a cut above the other premium small sensor compacts, it doesn’t justify the extra effort.

*This is in direct contrast to the LX7/D-Lux 6, which even has a choice for its program mode – whether to shoot at optimal apertures or not (though why you’d choose anything else is also beyond me).

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Ultimately, I was left with very mixed feelings on this camera. I really wanted to like it; it simply felt right in the hand in a way that few other modern designs have managed to; color rendition and native tonal response render both very natural color images and subtly toned black and white ones after conversion. Above all, it was very, very enjoyable to use. The trouble is, I can’t help but feel the size to image quality tradeoff isn’t a good one; if I’m going to carry something that large and not particularly pocketable, to be honest, I’d rather have the OM-D – which moves me up a couple of sensor classes entirely. Furthermore, despite being physically large for its sensor size, the battery is rather small – I averaged about 250-300 frames before running dry. You’ll definitely need a spare to get through a day; it was often dead by noon, though I probably shoot a lot more than the average person (I managed to exhaust the X20 regularly despite also shooting the OM-D and Coolpix A in roughly equal amounts).

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This isn’t to say that the X20 is a bad camera; far from it. I think if you’re not particularly picky about image quality at 100%, then it’ll really put the fun back into photography for many; both because it’s responsive and because it’s such a tactile pleasure to handle (especially the chrome version). Moreso if you don’t care to shoot RAW and postprocess afterwards; like all of the Fujis, the out of camera JPEGs are very pleasing indeed, with excellent color and tonality – especially if you do use the enhanced dynamic range modes. I might see if the wife fancies an upgrade to her XF1…MT

The Fuji Finepix X20 is available here from B&H.

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Comments

  1. For me the X20 is a ‘good enough’ camera but not amazing. The images are at par with other point and shoot cameras. The built in effects are again good enough to have if you don’t like doing post production.

    My sample photos http://bit.ly/1rAcv5q are simply ok and not what I was expecting.

  2. yeiter@icloud.com says:

    what model Olympus OM-D are you referring to

  3. Great review and beautiful shots –
    What’s your opinion about the color (quality saturation “film look”
    and also the low light performance between LX7 and the X20
    thanks
    Teddy

    • You can make colour whatever you want if you know what you’re doing in PS. Both are about the same in low light, the LX7 gains on the lens, the X20 gains on the sensor. It’s a wash.

  4. Hi Ming, just wondering if my wifi prefers shooting on AF most of the time, which would you recommend i get her, the x20 or x10? A bit of a noob when it comes to cameras. Thanks!

  5. Just picked one of these up yesterday and am really pleased with it so far, a great fun camera for when Im not taking an SLR out with me.
    The DR modes confused me though – something Im going to need to play with more. Also I couldnt find a way of altering the standard B&W presets, which to me, are a little flat – ideally needing a bit more contrast. is there any way to adjust this?

  6. Hello Ming
    Thank you for your time. After a long time, I’ve stumbled upon a meaningful camera review site.
    I know from your comments that you prefer a X20 to a LX7. Since I’m on the verge of buying a camera, I wish to know from your experience – out of the 2 mentioned models 1) which is better in low light photography since I mainly will be using for party functions were ambient light will be quite less. 2) which is the better one to get the ISO, aperture and shutter settings in a jiffy.
    Thanks

    • Yes and no – the LX7 has better image quality, a faster lens and better stabilizer. I’d go with the LX7 for low light over the X20, but neither are ideal. You don’t really get much DOF control with either, so I just run program mode/ auto ISO for both.

  7. Great reviews and always very informative. I have had the X10 and enjoy it for times i dont want to take my D800 and lenses with me. I now have the X20 and having read your Sony RX100 review wondered If you had to grab the X20 or the Sony RX100 which would you choose?

    • RX100.

      • It’s probably been long since you have used the fujis, but do you think the new Fuji xq1 would be far from Sony RX100 in terms of iq and usability? The model basically packs x20 sensor (slightly higher pixel count) into xf1 body (less the mechanical zoom). Decent low-light performance, zoom lens, nice color reproduction and manual focus ring+peaking in a pocketable body sound good to me. I am looking for a carry-anywhere camera that could shoot indoors and would not require much pp. For some reason don’t like the way rx100 handles. Unfortunately I can only try either in a store showroom so I’m posting a long shot question…

        • I’ve used the XQ1, and it has similar performance to the X20 (which isn’t as good as the RX100 on the sensor side, but the lens is better, so we have advantage Sony in good light, advantage X20 in poor light). However, the XQ1’s lens is similar to the Sony – so I’d still say advantage Sony overall, especially if you go for the M2 version which adds a handy tilt screen and a slightly improved (and very impressive for the size) sensor.

  8. I recently both this camera and noticed something maybe strange by zooming. By decreasing zoom, somwhere around 85mm there is strange click noise. When I’m turning it really slow it isn’t present. And also around 20-30 it seems not to be so smooth like the rest of the range. Have anybody experienced something similar on this camere? I wonder if I should let it be checked.

  9. Stephen Scharf says:

    VERY interesting and well-done review, Ming. My experiences are starting to parallel yours, I’m afraid. It’s starting to turn into a disappointing experience because my X10 was such a great little camera with excellent image quality. The new X20’s phase detection AF, Trans-panel display, and other enhancements (like re-positioning the AF selection button) plus the silver color, make my X20 a joy to *use*. It’s also faster and snappier to use in-hand.

    But then there’s the imaqe quality issues. At first I thought things were okay, but I’ve recently taken some snapshots at ISO 400 that were dreadful. I have to now go back and look at my several thousand X10 photos taken at higher ISOs at 100% to see if I had comparable issues with that camera, but IIRC, I didn’t have anything like the image quality issues with the X10 that I’m seeing with the X20.

    Just a note for you and your X20 owning readers:
    I agree with the current thinking that one has to shoot RAW to get the best out of the X20. Doing some extensive comparison of RAW conversions, it’s clear to me that Capture One 7.1.1 is still demonstrably superior to Lightroom 4.4 or beta 5 in X-trans RAW conversion. Capture One still does a superior job of demosaicing the raw data, and using a combination of it’s sharpening and noise reduction tools, I can obtain quite good quality images up to ISO 400. Being able to get images at higher ISOs, don’t know yet, but I’m not super optimistic, which is ultimately disappointing, because Fuji’s whole raison d’etre for years prior to the X-series was very good quality images at high ISO (witness the wonderful little F31fd…)

    We shall see…in the meantime, I’ve got a replacement X10 on order, Calumet still has some in stock for a great price, $459.

    • Thanks Stephen. Though the ACR engines do a better job than before with the X trans sensors, you’re probably right about C1. The issue is that I don’t think I could get a better result out of C1 since I’ve never used it, but I know every trick in the book with ACR. The rest of the camera simply isn’t good enough, and the potential results not worthwhile, for me to start investing in learning another workflow (that introduces an intermediate step before PS, too).

      Here’s a more interesting question: was the F31FD really that good, or do we just remember it that way? I recently looked at some F10/F11 images out of curiosity, and frankly, they were no better than the D-Lux6/ LX7. That camera’s shooting envelope is much larger too, given the lens being two or more stops faster, and an excellent IS system. Maybe we’ve gotten spoiled…

  10. Neils B says:

    Thoughtful and nuanced review but your conclusion surprises me. Even after accounting for the fact that I am only looking at the pics on a computer screen, I can’t get rid of the feeling that the photographs you managed to capture with the X20 are a cut above the rest. For example, the Coolpix A pics that you generated are indeed nice but (imo) pale in comparison to what you’ve put up here. With your practiced eye, could you compare your own pics (not cameras) with x20 and Coolpix A? Thanks.

    • At web resolutions, you can’t really tell. The comparison images also weren’t shot under similar conditions. At anything larger – at decent reproduction sizes – the A completely decimates the X20. The X20’s image quality falls apart above ISO 200.

  11. I had a similar experience with both the X20 and the X100S. I tried both recently and while I loved the experience of shooting with both tools, the file quality at higher ISOs (ISO 400!) left me disappointed when price is factored into the equation. Were I content with just JPEGs, then maybe I’d consider the Fujis, but for my money I want a bit higher image quality in the fine tonal details. Both new Fujis render things like leaves a bit too coarsely for my taste (again, at ISO 400 and above). The wait goes on (sigh).

    In the meantime, I bought a Canon S110 and I dig it for my price/performance/usability equation. At the rate we’re going, It should hold me over for another few years since I doubt Sony will listen to users and create the “perfect” pocket cam with their next iteration of the X100.

  12. Jim Liessmann says:

    You are right about the X20 being fun to use. It is the most fun I have ever had with a camera. All my other cameras were just tools to get the job done. It may have a few shortcomings, but I’m slowly working my way around those and hopefully Fuji will address them with a firmware update.

  13. Ming, I’ve enjoyed reading this review and it is a regular occurence for me to enjoy them. I’ve found your discussion interesting even when the product involved is not one of immediate personal interest…
    Today while reaading this review I began to recognize that some of the comparisons drawn between products, over the course of several reviews, were beginning to blur for me. If I owned all of the products or hand first-hand contact with them it would probably be easier to follow the differences, just as I can tell you the differences between my family members. But without the first-hand experience with multiples I find that I can very easily lose track of whether X being better than W also means that X is superior to Q. Adding to the difficulty in making clear inferences is the effect of time…. a fantastic device reviewed last year may have lost lustre compared to the device you are reviewing today.
    So today I began to feel a chart or a handful of charts would likely be a nuisance for you to maintain, and outside the scope of your usual writing process, but rather nice as a reader to look at every once in a while. The charts would depict relative merits of products you have reviewed based on criteria that you choose (supposing build quality? haptics? responsiveness? image quality / detail? interface?). For ease maybe groups of products that seem natural could be covered by separate charts — such as ocketables vs. DSLRs for example although there may be that desire to compare results between the two.
    Such an approach might be superior to sites that give scores because those scores can also lose relevance over time.
    In light of recents posts you’ve made about the poor economic return on investment I don’t presume this idea (more work) to hold a lot of attraction even if you considered it worthy as an idea. Instead I’m sharing the thoughts on the mere chance and hope that you might find them gainful.

    • Thanks for the idea. I’d actually thought about this already, but as you say – making it work is a lot of work that doesn’t make sense. It’s not a case of poor ROI, but zero ROI…and we’d also have to update the relative scales every time there was a significant move in the market. E.g. if the 1DsIII got a 10/10 on image quality, where would we put the D800E? What about the D800E’s successor? Etc. Some parameters have no absolute maxima.

      For a quick synopsis on anything, I’d recommend checking out the Camerapedia instead – which is regularly updated – the blurbs there give a quick assessment of the equipment in independence along with the date, which should give you a good idea of how it stacks up.

      • Yes, exactly, some parameters have no absolute maxima. It seems as if a new class leader, for example, would necessitate rescaling all of the existing data points.
        But perhaps a chart could work more like some market positioning charts I recall? The relative positioning was important but the actual measurements were subjective and often non-numeric.
        It really would not matter if you assigned a value of “12” to the D800E successor and later gave a value of “15” to the generation after that, because the charts would represent your well-informed thoughts rather than hard numeric data. (Hide numeric measurements from the axis to avert nitpicking by readers.) A spreadsheet might make fairly short work of it.
        As far as ROI, I must concede that point. One might hope that business would build as you continue to promote further classes and teaching materials, products you’ve contemplated, etc., but I would personally probably be economically deterred from the amount of effort that you have already been investing in this site!

  14. Luis Castro Solla says:

    Ming, thanks again for your very interesting reviews, I have now owned an LX7 for some time, and it is the camera I carry with me usually (I still have the Pana GF2 and the Nikon D7000). Just one slight disagreement: I love neck straps on cameras, for two reasons: (1) they free my hands and (2) if I stretch my arms, and put the camera as far away from my neck as possible, I get a sort of stabilizing triangle (it is not a tripod, of course, but it helps me gain one or two stops; my hands tremble when I use a wrist strap). And if the strap is narrow, which is the case, you can still tuck the camera in a coat pocket or a small bag.
    All the best

    • Yep, that works, but not if you’re carrying multiple cameras – then they tend to clang together. Sounds odd but I’ve grown very fond of the original leather belt case for the first Ricoh GRD; it’s slim, padded, collapses flat when there’s no camera in it, and has a magnetic latch that’s very much quick-draw. Everything I’ve kept on a long term basis so far fits inside comfortably. The X20 and A do not, unfortunately. I’m hoping the GR V does…

  15. Thank you Ming again for the very balanced review.

    The GR’s LCD can be switched off, so you can use the OVF on it, hope you get it soon. :)

  16. John Lockwood says:

    Your images from the X20 prove it’s always the skills of the craftsman, seldom the tool. Thanks for this review. I’d love one, but would rather an APS-C sensor like the X100 or even the EOS-M, which B&H currently sells for only $529.

  17. Interesting review again. The photos are lovely; displaying the strengths and weaknesses of the camera. Although I think at the end of the day, you are most likely to adopt the new Ricoh GR; with the Nikon Coolpix A as a consolation prize. Looking forward to reading more of your articles.

  18. I have the X-E1 and it exhibits the same behavior with regards to the dynamic range modes. Or more precisely, it doesn’t tend to choose higher ISO, it absolutely will do, every time. DR200 can only be enabled if ISO is 400 or higher, and DR400 can only be enabled if ISO is 800 or higher. This means, if I remember correctly from when I tested it, that to use Auto DR you also have to use Auto ISO. Auto DR but set ISO 200 will always give you DR100, while Auto DR and set ISO 400 might give you DR200 if the camera thinks you need it. The last bit makes sense to me, but ISO 800 and extended dynamic range sounds counter intuitive.

    • It’s less of a penalty with the larger sensor, though. With the 2/3″ unit on the X20, then you’re starting to pay the noise penalty even in the midtones at moderate ISOs. Higher ISOs are required for more dynamic range because I think what the camera is doing is boosting the shadows…

    • Shazley Sahib says:

      Eh i think you got it wrong. On my X10 which has gone to a new owner, the behavior with L size is exactly the same as X20. DR 100 min ISO 100, DR 200 min ISO 200 & DR 400 min ISO 400. Only in M size on the X10 you can use all the DR. And that wont work with the new X-Trans sensor sadly.

      Something i just found out, you can use Auto DR in X20 Manual Mode, which you can’t in X10 though i believe a new firmware on the X10 can enable that. Same with the minimal shutter speed in the Auto ISO setting.

      Oh great review btw. :D

  19. Reblogged this on cherylmeek and commented:
    This confirms my thoughts on the X20

  20. Ming, as an owner of the new X20, will have to say that this is the best critical review of the camera that I’ve yet seen. To me it’s the ergonomics and overall feel of the camera that make it stand out. Fully agree where you said: “… to get the most out of this camera’s image quality, you have to do a few things: firstly, shoot it in DR100 mode; secondly, shoot RAW; thirdly, use aperture priority.” And yes, the quick menu has become my ally. As far as battery life goes, at 250-300 frames you’re doing better than me. I’ve averaged 190-220 shots per charge, so I bought a pair of extra NP-50 Li-ion batteries. Problem solved.

  21. the pic with the three girls did you ask them if you could take their pic, or were you at a distance

  22. Thanks for your comments. I’ve had the X20 for a bit more than a week, having bought it for an upcoming trip to use instead of my DSLR, and I think what you say is pretty fair. It does take a bit of fiddling to get best results, and I’m still getting used to its requirements, but when the spirit is with the shot there’s a lustrous, textured quality I find quite captivating. So it’s not really a point-and-shoot, but on the other hand it’s a lot of fun. I don’t fully agree about the size, though — it’s light and ergonomically well thought out, and getting a fixed lens with a 28-112 zoom range and a brilliant macro capacity which I love is a lot more convenient than carrying multiple lenses even if an interchangeable-lens body measures up similarly. So I’m keeping mine, and looking forward to learning how to get the best out of it.

  23. Phukhanh Vu says:

    Hi Ming,

    Outstanding review. Thank you for taking time to do the review. Would you please clarify as you said that “It seems to me that to get the most out of this camera’s image quality, you have to do a few things: firstly, shoot it in DR100 mode; secondly, shoot RAW; thirdly, use aperture priority.” Do you mean RAW or RAW F or RAW N??? Thank you.

    • RAW and edit the RAWs. Whether you add a JPEG or not is up to you, but it seems pointless given you’re already going to work with the RAW file. F and N are JPEG+RAW settings.

  24. Great review as always. Despite the shortcomings in IQ you mentioned, the posted sample pictures are wonderful, each one of them.

  25. Great Review Ming! Thank You! Best Wishes – Eric

  26. light_hunter says:

    Thank you for this insightful and balanced review. I truly appreciate the fact that you highlighted both the pros and cons plus the practical usability of this camera, instead of merely gushing over it as most other review sites have done on the X20.
    I have a simple question. If you had to choose between the X20 or LX7 as your take anywhere camera – which one would you go for?

    • Very, very tough call. The X20 is much more fun to use, but the LX7 is pocketable and has that excellent lens. Both have compromises. In the end, I’d probably go with the X20 because it’s simply more enjoyable to use, and image quality is a hair better.

      • Maurisse says:

        Ming, the OMD and X-E1 is twice as expensive as the x20, are either camera’s worth the double expense? Is there a camera that we don’t normally talk about in the micro 4/3 arena that hovers under the $1000 mark that produces as well as these other two?

        • The OM-D is worth it, can’t speak for the X-E1 as I’ve never used one. The E-PM2 and E-PL5 have the same sensor as the OM-D and are much cheaper.

Trackbacks

  1. […] finns mycket att nämna om Fujifilm X20 – läs gärna den här förträffliga recensionen av Ming Thein, en ruskigt bra fotograf som är riktigt bra koll på allt […]

  2. […] disappointed by several cameras, first the original X100, then the X-Pro1, the XF1 and finally the X20. These are cameras I wanted to love, but found lacking in several areas; ultimately, I landed up […]

  3. […] Added on 4/19/2013: http://blog.mingthein.com/2013/04/19/fuji-finepix-x20/ […]

  4. […] Review: The Fuji FinePix X20 – Ming Thein | Photographer Apr 19, 2013 … Fuji have even added an LCD overlay in the optical finder (which still …. The Fuji Finepix X20 is available here from B&H. ….. Trackbacks … […]

  5. [...] of the well-respected real-world reviewers have now covered this camera, including Steve Huff and Ming Thein. Both finished their reviews with satisfactory results and moved on, but after more than a month of [...]

  6. [...] I picked up my review sample from B&H on my first day in New York; I spent several days solidly shooting it alongside the Nikon Coolpix A, and the Olympus OM-D I normally travel with. Many of y…  [...]

  7. [...] Fuji Finepix X20 Pros: Decent JPEGs; good fast lens with IS; a very, very enjoyable camera to shoot with; high tactile quality; decent optical finder with shooting information display. Cons: Subpar image quality at anything other than base ISO; avoid DR200/400 modes due to noise; it isn’t really pocketable – nearly the same size as an OM-D with 14-42 pancake zoom. [...]

  8. [...] Source: http://blog.mingthein.com/2013/04/19/fuji-finepix-x20/ [...]

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